Article on New York Times Travel
A version of this article appeared in print on December 21, 2008, on page TR4 of the New York edition with the headline: A Fabled City of the Dissolute Gets a New Shine.

Article on New York Times Travel
A version of this article appeared in print on December 21, 2008, on page TR4 of the New York edition with the headline: A Fabled City of the Dissolute Gets a New Shine.